Apple Tree Day 2025 is on Monday, January 6, 2025: Help with Apple trees?

Monday, January 6, 2025 is Apple Tree Day 2025. Buy Apple Trees - Larger Sizes‎ More Fruit, Faster Must Order Now for Spring Planting!

Apple Tree Day may be known as ‘Put a Physician Bankrupt Day’ due to the fruit’s health advantages. However, the foundation of the day is very different. Apple Tree Day began like a celebration of the old apple tree almost 220 years old, and it has grown to become celebration from the apple itself.Even when it's not necessary use of an organised function on Apple Tree Day, you may still participate – just eat an apple, drink apple cider or eat foods with apple inside them. Traditionalists will require apple tree clippings and plant them, but when it's not necessary a eco-friendly thumb it’s just like acceptable to plant an apple tree purchased from a plant nursery. Join a training course on fruit tree pruning. If you are at the office, hold a contest to determine who are able to peel an apple to help make the longest ‘Slinky’ – it's not necessary to love apples to become involved.And also, since this very day comes just annually, if you are for each other declare it by tossing a Golden Scrumptious in the ‘apple of the eye’ and find out when they reciprocate your affections by catching it. When they don’t, there’s always the coming year!

Apple trees produce flowers that have both male and female reproductive organs. However, a better fruit crop is achieved when the tree is pollinated by another tree of the same variety. But left to its own devices, you can still get a decent (if lesser) crop of apples if it self-pollinates. I suspect that you mean greenfly, which I understand is the UK equivalent of what we in Canada call the aphid. Aphids are nasty creatures, but fairly easily controlled. Stick to natural methods if at all possible, since a food-crop tree is not desirable with residues of chemicals; whereas, natural methods, when performed properly, are relatively safe for humans and pets. Aphids are mainly congregators on the fleshy parts of the plant, and are actually displaced by the spray of the hose, and most being flightless and helpless, fall to the ground, and unable to return to where they were, they die. Infestations on a large scale can be removed with Safer's soap, a refined mixture of soaps that are safe and easy to use. As with any spray, natural or not, that can be breathed during application, it is always wise to wear a mask, and gloves if you are a sensitive individual. Worms are likely caused by a separate creature which infects the apples prior to maturity. A simple natural method to help control this is to purchase a lightweight "fake" apple--the kind intended for artificial arrangements--coat it with cooking oil or Vaseline, and suspend it in the tree when the tree begins setting fruit. The insect responsible for the worms (at a later stage of its development) "thinks" that it is an apple, approaches to lay its eggs, and gets stuck in the goop and dies. Whether you use a fake apple or even a ball, it must be red in this case. You can find out a great deal by internet search, neighbours, etc. Most people are pleased to assist, then you, one day, can pass on your information to a novice in the future. Most commercial apple trees have been grafted. That is where a hardy tree (rootstock) is grafted ("married") through a union with a desirable variety ("scion"). So one tree will consist of two varieties, or more, in the case of novelty trees. The variety that you want will be the one that grows above the graft union (also known as the graft knob because it is usually evident by a bulge in growth). There can be growth that occurs beneath this union, and this must be pruned away, or this growth, which is undesirable, will eventually overtake the tree, and sublimate the scion. When pruning, always leave a collar on the bark. In the old days, a "flush cut" was used on trees, but now the collar cut is known to be proper, cutting (with a sharp pruning saw) to where the bark forms a jutting out piece just at the base of the branch. There, the healing cell structure exists, and the tree will be self-healing. If this is removed, the tree cannot heal itself properly, and will be host to disease and infestation very easily. Tree paint should NOT be used, as a proper cut will heal itself. Tree paint actually hinders proper healing by trapping pathogens and other detrimental micro-organisms and bringing them into contact with fresh-cut tissue, causing a condition that will allow them to flourish. I stopped using tree paint many years ago, and with proper pruning, my trees have been fine. I could go on and on, but you have some basics. You should investigate fertilizers, (not too much nitrogen for fruit bearers, or you'll get too many leaves; bone meal, rich in phosphorus, is great.) Anyway, the "guaranteed analysis" on the bag of fertilizer (NPK) is the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Fruit trees require all these macronutrients, but need more phosphorus for fruiting, as mentioned. So learn about your trees and you will do the right thing and succeed. Maybe you can ask further questions and I will answer them if I am able. Good luck! (And you will want to learn to bake great apple pies, if you don't know already! I have some great pie recipes, too...)

My son started two apple trees from seed?

Well Apple trees can grow in about any state in the U.S. Though some varieties do better in different climates and places with different diseases etc. The best time to put something like that out would be the spring but since they are already a foot tall now what I would do is start putting them outside in whatever container they are in. Put them outside for a few days for about 6 hours at a time and bringing them in. This is to get them used to being outside or they will go into shock. Then in about a week and a half find a place that gets lots of sun and dig a hole for them, I would plant some of the trunk of the plant also because I'm sure the roots aren't all that great on it. Then I would stake them up right away even though you normally do this when they are about three foot. Make sure when you dig the hole for the tree you water the hole plenty first. Then fill in the hole and I would take some fertilizer some regular miracle grow will do and then dilute it 50 percent more than they instructions say and water around the tree not getting any on the trunk of it. Then I would not fertilize it anymore ever. Trees really do not need that much fertilization and then only water if its really dry weather and when winter comes you can put a plastic covering over it on nights that get very cold. Also do not plant so close to each other when they get bigger they will fight for water and nutrients, in orchards they are planted closer but that is because it is more cost efficient but not the most efficient for the healthiest trees.

Apple tree growing ? How to start?

Planting an apple tree is very easy, here's what to do:

You need to have apple seeds, you can get them when you finish eating an apple or you can buy them from any flowers shop.

Take these seeds and put them in a dry place for few days until there's no moisture in the seed shell, Once the seed is dry,cove it with a damp paper towel and place it in the fridge,You need to check very often to make sure that the towel is damp,Once these seeds have been in the fridge for about a month, they will be sprouted.

After the seeds been sprouted, put them in a small cup of potting soil and remember to water them every day or else the soil gets dried out and crumbly. Now just wait for some growth

Once you have a small apple seedling, transplant it to a larger pot and keep watering daily :-)... If you want 'all-natural apples' do not add store bought fertilizer "you can use leaf mulch or compost".

Now pick a location for your tree, choose a planting site that gets full sun, is convenient and has a big enough space to grow "in other words, no rotten apples in the neighbor's yard). With pruning, expect the tree to eventually reach a height of 20 ft or so".

Once your little sapling has gotten big enough that no one will step on it or think it is a weed, carefully transplant it without cutting off any roots. Best time of year to plant depends on location - in Zone 8 or so and warmer fall planting can work well, otherwise plant in spring, once the threat of hard frost has passed. Dig the planting hole much wider than the roots to allow them to grow easily. Water the tree in well to eliminate air pockets, then spread a mulch of hardwood chips or hay a few inches thick, in a 3 ft circle around the tree. This will help retain moisture and keep grass from growing and out-competing your young tree's roots for water and nutrients. Speaking of which, do not add any nitrogen sources "fertilizer, un-aged compost" when planting. Wait a month or two before considering adding a slow-release nitrogen source.

After the first year, you can stop watering it, unless you live in an extremely dry area, in which case you should continue to water, at least during the dry season. The equivalent of an inch or two of water a week is ideal for the first year - make sure you give it a good soaking, and not a sprinkle

An apple tree wants to build a lot of growth before it decides to create fruit - it's way of reproducing - so let it grow till it starts to bear

the tree will bear fruit. Apples are normally propagated by grafting because they do not reproduce true from seed, so your seedling tree is an experiment! It may produce fruit that tastes wonderful, or not...but either way the fruit is unlikely to resemble the apple the seed came from