Take A Wild Guess Day 2024 is on Monday, April 15, 2024: take a wild guess?

Monday, April 15, 2024 is Take A Wild Guess Day 2024. National Take a Wild Guess Day - the year of LIVING UNOFFICIALLY National Take a Wild Guess Day

There isn’t any prize for speculating what we’re honoring today! As the intuition could have said, it’s Take A Wild Guess Day – which does what it really states around the container. The goal would be to turn the spotlight on hunches, brilliant advances of deduction and outright uncertainty.Creator during the day Jim Barber designed a lucky reckon that it might be a success – and that he demonstrated to become right, as many folks have became a member of in honoring the occasion. He made the decision your day should coincide with National Tax Day in america, when information filed needs to be exact. It can make a refreshing vary from accumulated rows of figures to provide your imagination free rein.A great way to mark your day is to create a fun wager having a friend, or guess the solution for any competition. Do you experience feeling lucky? Maybe you'll be!

Do the math, dude...

I'm 44 years old...

That's roughy 16,000 days I have been alive since I was born...

(You're "estimate" is wildly exaggerated WAY too high, given the years you spent as a "pre-virgin," the fact that you don't have sex every day, and the fact that you're not "doing the math..." There are 365 days in the year...how many days have you been alive? Take your age...multiply it by 365...and that is how many days you've ever lived...and unless you've been having sex ever since you were born on an almost every other day average...

...you can easily see how your estimate is grossly exaggerated too damn high...

Wild Baby Bunny Help Please!?

In a previous article (Kenyon, 1999), I introduced a protocol for the successful rehabilitation of orphaned wild infant cottontail and marsh rabbits that avoids the often-fatal diarrhea commonly seen during wild rabbit rehabilitation (Evans, 1983; Reese, 1992).This approach includestwo features:(1)habituating('taming') the rabbits to captivity through early frequent handling, and (2) providing the infants with 'soft feces' (also termed cecotropes) from an older wild rabbit to help establish their gut flora prior to weaning them to solid food.My previous article addressed initial care for the rabbits, making an incubator and formula feeding.Here I describe the remaining components of this protocol, including weaning to solid food, caging and release procedures.

WEANING

Weaning-onset diarrhea is a very common occurence in wild baby rabbits that have been separated from their mother prior to their eyes opening.Once such diarrhea begins, I know of no way to stop it, and it usually is fatal.To avoid this, within a day or two of the eyes opening and BEFORE ANY solid foods are offered, begin the following probiotic (microbe supplying) regimen. Obtain fresh cecotrope material (hereafterreferred to as CTs) from an older healthy wild rabbit.There are two forms that can be used. The most common is the CT "packet", the clump of closely clustered grape-like 'soft feces' that are expelled by the rabbit during the night or dawn hours. CTs are dark brown to black, soft and moist, with a strong odor, in contrast to the individual, lighter colored round pellets that are excreted (these are also harder, drier and less odorous than CTs).Rabbits usually eat CTs directly from their anus, and thus they are not readily found in a rabbit's excrement.The best way to obtain CTs is to put an Elizabethan collar on a domestic rabbit overnight. The rabbit should be in an elevated cage with clean newspaper underneath to catch the CT material.Analternate method for obtaining CTs is to get the cecal sac from a butchered healthy rabbit. It does not matter what age or sex the rabbit donor is.What does matter is that it is healthy, without parasites, and that it is not on any type of medication.Remove 2-3 of the soft pellets and offer them to the rabbit.Some bunnies will readily lick these off one's finger.Otherwise, mix them into 1cc of formula and syringe feed.In either case, make certain that all of the material is eaten. Feed this once each day for 3 or 4 days.If fluid from the cecum is used, withdraw this directly into a 1cc syringe and feed 1/3 cc per day on the same schedule.Experimental studies (i.e., controlled double-blind, etc.) need to be done to determine the precise CT dosage and schedule. For example, smaller doses over a shortened time may be adequate.However, since 1987 I have used the protocol described here with complete success on dozens of rabbits, and thus I strongly recommend that it be followed until additional data are available.Because of the difficulty in obtaining CTs, it would be helpful if these could be frozen for future use.Thus, studies also need to be done to determine whether and how long the CTs remain viable under freezing or other methods of preservation.I have frozen the cecal sac liquid and based on microscopic examination after thawing, it has appeared to remain 'alive' for at least a few weeks.Once this schedule of CT feeding has been completed, weaning onto solid foods can begin.The weaning diet should consist ofhigh quality, name brand rabbit pellets and high quality, well washed natural vegetation (e.g., grass, clover, dandelions and plantains) that you are certain has not been sprayed with, or was not in a drift area of, pesticides or fertilizers.Also include high quality alfalfa hay.It is imperative that the hay be completely dry and stored in an air tight container to avoid the risk of molds.A good transitional food is raw rolled Quaker{R} oats.Bunnies are always eager to eat this and will continue to favor it; thus you must wean them off the oats inorder to get them to eat the pellets.

Although rather young wild rabbits may be seen outside their nest during weaning, this does not necessarily mean that they are weaned from their mother's milk (Reese, 1992). For example, I have observed a wild mother rabbit (one that had previously been rehabbed and released), near her nest nursing babies that were a few weeks beyond eye-opening.In fact, cottontails are not fully weaned until 4-5 weeks of age (Chapman et al., 1982).Thus, you should continue to feed formula during the weaning process.To avoid spoilage, do not add liquid formula to the oats or the pellets.Also, do not put formula in a dish, as the bunnies will step in and run through it, getting it all over themselves and contaminating it.Trying to clean formula from bunny fur is very stressful both for the bunny and you!As the bunny gets older, you can offer a dish of liquid formula and see if they can drink it without making a mess.Howe

Pet mouse attacked by wild mouse?

Never happened to me and I have had mice 20 years, but a mouse friend of mine had wild mice nipping at the feet of her mice she was breeding through the wire section of the bins homes. I also have known people to have a doe get pregnant by a buck Wild mouse. You might consider a bin home with wire just on the top like I have. As long as the wire is spaced 1/16" or less, nobody can get in/out and your little one is highly unlikely to be hanging from the bars. Problem with bin homes is same as with tanks which is ammonia build-up; however, nightly spot cleaning of the tinkle/poo areas prevents this. It also helps keep smell down as a bonus. TFM is an excellent mouse site with a section on mouse housing should you decide to consider a new home. It includes wire and wire spacing recommendation:

I have run across instructions on homemade humane traps, but I am also including a link to the humane trap we bought that had a 100% success rate of an entire litter of Wild mice that were born near our fireplace. We tried many types of traps, and only this one could they not figure how to get out of. You do need to ensure the model you buy has air holes, though, because ours did not so my husband had to drill some. As for bait, wild birdseed and popcorn were what I used for bait. Please do not use peanut butter as it can choke a mouse because of how thick and sticky it is:

(I cannot find the video of the pop bottle taped to a weighted base I have used on here in the past, but shall add it if I find it later.)

Regarding medicine, chances of your little one getting a disease are minimal, but if you are concerned about infection, a little Neosporin may help (generic fine-Triple Antibiotic ointment). You can use a saline rinse first to cleanse it. Do not use peroxide as it has been found to kill healthy tissue, too. I would watch for parasites on your mouse, but again, chances are minimal if this once was the only contact. TFM has a thread by NM discussing why Wild mice are NOT carriers of every conceivable disease. You may have to register to read it, though:

Just to be thorough I shall include the page discussing treating parasites. It is below:

I am sorry this happened to your mouse, but yay for you for opting for a humane trap. I hope you catch the little booger and can take him to a place such as a park with creek nearby.